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2004 Mid-Crush Update
Greetings to all
our friends!
A 2004 crush
snapshot reminds me of the similarly early and compressed 1984
crush. While both harvests were early and short at least according
to the calendar, the complete 2004 vintage profile differs
significantly. In contrast to the hot, spikey and short 1984
growing season, the very early 2004 spring prompted an early bloom
so even with an early harvest we experienced long hang times.
Further, the cool and even temperatures during verasion and ripening
slowly brought the fruit to maturity and our expectation that
harvest would begin around the 1st of September. Though
the heat may have contributed to slight dehydration-driven
concentration, the fruit was ripe and ready. Further, crop levels
down by 35% in some blocks, smaller than normal clusters and tiny
berry size should lead to full, rich flavors. In general, we expect
to see some excellent wines from this vintage.
Our first
significant Frediani Syrah was first to the press, followed
immediately by our Luvisi 1908 Zinfandel. Our first real look at
these fermented wines is encouraging. Colors are deep, flavors are
rich and full. Tannins are high. Our 1956 Zinfandel, Cabernet,
Cabernet Franc and Charbono are still fermenting and we continue to
work them by punching down, and pumping over, while vigilantly
watching, tasting, smelling and (yes, believe it) even listening as
each tank changes daily. The fruity fermentation smells waft
through our home above the cellar! We expect to begin pressing the
’56 Zinfandel this week.
Riverside Tasting Patio
Finally, after
nearly a year of haggling with the City of Calistoga, our outdoor
tasting patio has been approved! Given the unbelievable commotion,
scrutiny, vacillation and of course diametrically conflicting
information provided to us by the City, one would think we were
constructing a nuclear power plant or perhaps a hog farm next door
to a day care center! This is another clear indication that the
bureaucracy in California at all levels, is increasingly strangling
business (particularly small businesses), while growing powerfully
out of control.
Oops! Got carried
away there didn’t I? Well, we expect to open our Napa River tasting
patio early October and perhaps sitting there accompanied by an icy
bottle of our snappy-fresh 2003 “Made in the Shade” Rose’ while
pickin’ at my trusty, old Gibson J-45 will render our efforts in
dealing with “arbit-bureau-trary-crats” finally worthwhile. So,
stop in often, bring an instrument, sit back and watch the river
flow!
The Bad News First
In the meantime,
we have some bad news: Our acclaimed 2001 Charbono is sold out as is
our smacky 2001 Sauvignon Blanc and our juicy, popular Luvisi 1908
Zinfandel. We produced around 400 combined cases of these lots and
they move about as fast as someone sips a sample at our tasting
room. Regarding our Sauvignon Blanc, I have had people who
previously preferred the currently popular grape-fruity style to the
traditional style of our 2001 (barrel fermented, extended sur-lie
barrel aged) stop by after tasting it recently at a party or a
restaurant and ask to purchase some. Too bad. Those of you who put
a few bottles down can attest to the wonderful evolution of this
wine.
Now The Good News
We have recently
released our Vintage
2003 Sauvignon Blanc.
Younger vines from a different block than our popular 2001
challenged us to try something new. So, we crafted this vintage
into a crisp, fresh and bright fruit-forward style. Some of you may
recall the legion of gluttonous Canadian Geese who picked the
vineyard clean, woefully leaving us without a 2002 vintage SB. To
update, they seem to have abandoned their natural migratory instinct
and evidently plan on settling in Calistoga permanently. Stay
tuned. Oh yes, oysters… On a recent starlit night, we assisted our
neighborhood in polishing off a bushel of fresh Hog Island oysters
paired with our 2003 Sauvignon Blanc. The following sunrise scene
featured multiple mounds of empty shells and numerous empty OTE SB
bottles widely scattered about the mountaintop, ample evidence of
the classic feast possible when simple components are perfectly
paired. So, from our tried and true recipe book: Fill a balmy,
star-filled summer night with a bushel of fresh oysters, add several
bottles of chilled, crisp and rich OTE Sauvignon Blanc, toss in
eager neighbors who will mix well until done. Legendary!
Our
2001 Frediani “1956” Zinfandel
(produced in a larger volume than the 1908 is still available. It
is juicy and jammy, and has come together nicely since bottling. It
is drinking exceptionally well now (I have always preferred this to
our 1908 due to its richness and better ageability) and will
continue to improve in the bottle for another two to four years. We
believe this is a true value in today’s Zinfandel market.
And even more good
news: We are now offering our first “Library Selections”.
Our Library program will periodically offer selected vintages which
we have given additional bottle ageing. Our initial offering
includes a few cases of our 2000 Frediani
“1956” Vineyard Zinfandel and the last few cases of our
2000 Luvisi Chardonnay.
The bright strawberry of the Zinfandel continues to evolve into an
amazingly rich mahogany-like perfume. Still age worthy, this is a
do not miss wine for those who can appreciate a Zin with a bit of
maturation. The Chardonnay has matured perfectly and is drinking so
nicely I wish I had held back a few more cases for our library. Due
to scarce quantities, our Library Selections are available only from
the winery, tasting room and our website.
So Chill Already!
Remember Rose’?
Most of us Stateside know Rose’ as that dull, sweet,
pink-to-orange-to-brown stuff in the dusty goofy bottles with the
oversized “Imported from Portugal” label. On the other hand, folks
living near the warm waters of the Mediterranean quench themselves
regularly with copious iced quantities of bright-pink, fresh and
fruity, crisp and dry wine they know as “Rose’”. It is this latter,
true Rose’ that legend claims to be the main reason summer picnics,
busy corner café’s, bocce ball, cheap straw hats and logo umbrellas
were invented. Well, we produced a few cases of this legendary
version during the 2003 vintage. Our
“Made in the Shade Rose” is a snappy bright blend of
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Charbono and is best when
served seriously chilled.
Jean Louis Vermeil Vintage 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon
Oh yes, our
2000 Jean Louis Vermeil Cabernet Sauvignon
is now available. Featuring deep-red-purple, lots of cherry fruit
and clove spiciness, tar, coffee, a background oakiness, ripe but
firm tannins, typical l-o-o-o-ng Frediani Vineyard finish and a bit
more fat than the 1999. Hold for 4-6 years if you can, otherwise
decant an hour or so before enjoying.
Now I truly must go back to work!
There is certainly
so much more to say including reviews to relay but this one man show
thing keeps me hopping. Like a broken record, I constantly drone
“The wine comes first.” Pumping over, pressing, racking, tasting,
analysis, etc., is done in prime time, leaving this quick newsletter
to be written in “spare” time! Be sure to drop into our Calistoga
tasting room for a sample of our latest release. While there, don’t
miss a good buzz with our pet bees! Honest! You are also certain
to enjoy perusing the hand-crafted candles from the internationally
acclaimed Hurd Beeswax Candle Company.
And, finally, you
are invited to relax in our Napa River patio!
Cheers!
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